Mountainwatch Guide To Perisher

June 4th, 2018
  
Midday pow turns anyone? Image:: Perisher Resort

 

Mountainwatch | Matt Wiseman

Not only is Perisher a dominant force among Australian ski resorts, it is the largest ski resort in the entire Southern Hemisphere when you look at its enormous skiable terrain, some 1245 hectares (3075 acres) spread across four interconnected resort areas. 

Perisher’s status as a heavy hitting global resort has only been bolstered in recent years following its acquisition by ski superpower Vail Resorts in 2015.

Perisher Ski Resort spans seven peaks along the Snowy Mountains Main Range in Kosciusko National Park. Spread horizontally across these hills lies Perisher Valley, Mount Blue Cow, Smiggin Holes and Guthega.

 

Spoilt for choice. Image:: Perisher Resort

 

For some context on exactly how big this combined area is, Perisher is two and a half times the size of Thredbo, three times the size of Falls Creek, four times the size of both Mt Buller and Mt Hotham respectively, and some 25 times bigger than Charlotte Pass and Selwyn.

 

Terrain

Unsurprisingly amongst this sprawl of four resorts lies enough terrain to satisfy all comers.

Perisher Valley: The gateway to skiing and boarding at Perisher, Perisher Valley’s Front Valley is a great place to pick up the sport with a number of magic carpets and the easy going eight-seater Village 8 Express Chairlift. Through this you have access to similarly easy going Pretty Valley, a long cruisy pitch, perhaps the most challenging aspect being the T-bar awaiting you at the bottom.

Blue Cow: Blue Cow has a little something for everyone, a range of green and blue runs in Zali’s and Roller Coaster can be upped with laps of Show Boat and Kamikaze. For a resort that can receive some criticism for lack of challenging terrain, the latter run has arguably one of Australia’s more consistently challenging pitches. A notable mention must also be made for devil’s Playground, a somewhat gladed zone full of interesting features.

Smiggins Hole: Best suited to beginner skiers and boarders and families, the structure of the Smiggins bowl means everyone returns to the same place at the end of their run.

Guthega: The subject of much development in recent years, with The Freedom Chair in 2014, the Guthega region offers some of the best skiing. Particularly favoured by locals, Guthega also offers some of the best panoramic views of the Kosciuszko mountain range.

 

Perisher pillows? Kinda… Image:: Perisher Resort

 

Bonus Terrain: While some excellent terrain also lies just beyond the boundaries of the resort, such as backcountry spot menacingly known as ‘The Paralyser’, some equally exciting runs can be found within the resorts nooks and crannies, best suited for those advanced skiers who want to feel like they’re earning their turns without necessarily doing so.

Double Trouble is one such zone accessed with a traverse and bootpack to the left as you unload from Blue Cow’s Pleasant Valley chair. The consistent gradient, replete with dense trees and rock drops or more spaced out tree skiing depending on which line you take, quite literally drains into Guthega (a creek cuts across the bottom) and a 20 metre walk will see you back in line at the chair.

 

Endless opportunities, especially if you fancy a walk. Image:: Perisher Resort

 

Terrain Parks

I’d be remiss if I failed to mention the multiplicity of terrain parks on offer at Perisher. The place is among many other things, a freestyle (read: park rat) skiers paradise, with five terrain parks, Australia’s only Superpipe, a mini half pipe and two rider cross courses.

 

 

The Slopestyle Terrain Park is Perisher’s world-class and critically acclaimed park, which runs from the top of Front Valley to its bottom. Even if you don’t fancy personally sending a dub in the park, it’s always fun to watch other human guinea pigs hurl themselves off giant kickers and slippery rods of metal while you ride the Perisher Express Quad in relative safety.

 

The crown jewels of Australian park skiing. Image:: Perisher Resort

 

Short of describing the intricacies of the Slopestyle park myself, and falling dismally short, instead check out the line professional snowboarder Marcus Kleveland took through it last season below:

 

 

Snowmaking

In addition to boasting some of the most reliable snow in the country on account of its high elevation. Perisher also has a vast multi-million dollar snowmaking system consisting of 271 snow guns.

While the guns now cover some 53.4 hectares of perisher’s terrain, looking long term the resort is planning to double snowmaking coverage to an impressive 110 hectares.

 

Suns out, guns out. Image:: Perisher Resort

 

Vail’s Acquisition – What’s All The Fuss About?

As mentioned Vail Resorts purchased Perisher Resort in 2014 for no less than AU$176.6 million (we don’t even want to know how many Lil orbits donuts they could have bought instead…)

Regardless this has meant a Perisher season pass, previously described as a Freedom Pass, has now levelled up into the status of Epic Pass. It’s all a bit confusing when it comes to world ski pass domination, but to put a long story short, the current season pass – valued at $889 (Adults) – will not only grant you unlimited access to skiing and boarding at Perisher this season, it will also allow you to ski 26 other world class mountain resorts across four different countries.

Highlights include access to Breckenridge, Keystone, Arapahoe Basin in Colorado; Park City in Utah; Heavenly, Northstar and Kirkwood in the Lake Tahoe region of California and now Stowe in Vermont (holiday restrictions apply). It also opens you up to 10 days combined skiing between Whistler Blackcomb, Vail and Beaver Creak (not necessarily used consecutively) and seven days at each of Crested Butte, Okemo and Mount Sunapee.

 

I’ve only ever seen corduroy look this good on a pair of pants. Image:: Perisher Resort

 

Perhaps most exciting, is the inclusion of Hakuba, an Aussie favourite for the coming 2018-19 season, with five consecutive free days. You can check out some other Hakuba deals here.

Since the company also committed to a zero net operating footprint by 2030, there’s not a lot to like.

 

Perisher’s come a long way since this image of the Mount Perisher double chair was taken. Circa 1960’s. Image:: Perisher Historical Society

 

Getting There

Perisher is 489km southwest of Sydney (5.5 – 6 hours) and 607km northeast of Melbourne (6 – 7 hours), or about half an hour’s drive from Jindabyne.

Perisher can be accessed directly via car or coach. Snowy mountain shuttles make daily trips up to Perisher and will even go so far as to pick you up directly from your accommodation. They also have a fleet of 4wds that specialise in airport transfers.

For those driving themselves, a good idea is to park for free at Bullock’s Flat off the Alpine Way and take the ski tube up the hill to either Perisher Valley or Blue Cow.

 

The Skitube is a safe bet if you don’t want your car to end up like this… Taken during one of 2017’s many ‘blizzard of Oz’s’. Image:: Perisher Resort

 

The Skitube is an alpine railway – and technically Australia’s longest ski lift – that tunnels through the Ramshead Range to Perisher Resort. The tunnel is Australia’s longest transport tunnel at 6.3km long, and at its deepest point is 550m beneath the slopes. Since it began its operations in 1987, the Skitube has carried over 4 million skiers and boarders up to the slopes.

 

Where To Stay

Visitors have an option of either staying up in Perisher, or more commonly staying in Jindabyne and driving up each day. Given the lack of longterm parking, guests staying up at Perisher are advised to park their vehicles (for free) at Bullocks Flat and continue via the skitube as above. Oversnow transport is then required to access most of the on-mountain lodging.

 

100 metres or so walk out of the Skitube station and you’re at the base of Front Valley. Image:: Perisher Resort

 

Where To Eat

Short of eating Lil Orbits donuts 24/7 (if only we could), some notable mentions can be made for the Powder Inn at the base of the Mt Perisher Double Chair or if you’re looking to spend, try Jax Chargrill.

You’ll also find Mid Perisher Centre – as the name suggests, at Mid station – aka the halfway point going up the Perisher Express Quad Chair, which makes it a popular place to meet up with friends. They’re well known for their Nachos, being home to the highest bakery in Australia and for their licensed bar that serves Bavarian wheat beer. Young and old can also enjoy their ‘hot chocolate happy hour’ replete with whipped cream and a marshmallow for just $2.50 until 10:30 am daily.

Those looking to get a quick coffee and cake can also do so at the Cowpuccino Café at Blue Cow’s Skitube Terminal. Whilst, the Pub Family Food Court is also a good spot to rendezvous on Front Valley and comes with an entertaining view of the aforementioned Slopestyle Park.

 

Village Life

Mmmm not really. Perisher is not like the Victorian resorts or Thredbo with respect to a buzzing après and nightlife scene. Instead guests visit to simply ski and board and either dine and party within on-mountain accommodations or down the valley in Jindabyne.

 

First tracks at Blue Cow anyone? Image:: Perisher Resort

 

Mountain Stats:

Ski Level – 22% Beginner / 60% Intermediate / 18% Advanced
Skiing Area – 1245 hectares (3075 acres)
Vertical Metres– 355m
Base Elevation – 1605m
Peak Elevation– 2034m
Average Snow depth – 1.9m
Lift Capacity– 53,990 skiers lifted per hour
Snow Guns – 271
Official Opening Day – 10 June 2018.
Perisher Website

 

No doubt you’ve seen this image doing the rounds since last seasons so called ‘blizzard of Oz’. Image:: Perisher Resort

 

Conclusion:

It’s no surprise that Perisher has been voted Australia’s Best Ski Resort three times, in the past six years.

Hopefully the 2018 winter season is as good as last year when we saw the best late season snow conditions in 17 years – over two metres of snow fell in August and a further 180cm through September.

You can check out what events Perisher have planned for the 2018 winter season here.