Treasureland Tohoku: Japanese Traditions and Powder Snow in Abundance 

Mountainwatch | Words and Photos Isabel Salzmann

When skiers and snowboarders dream about the world-famous powder for which Japan is renowned, the first region that springs to mind is probably Hokkaido. It must come as a surprise to many that the town with the heaviest snowfalls in Japan – in fact around the world – is Aomori City in Aomori Prefecture in the Tohoku region.

Tohoku is not only rich in snowfall, but also in Japanese traditions, festivals, and culinary highlights, and still carries the Japanese fairy-tale enchantment that one could miss in other ski resorts in Japan.

Tohoku is the most northern region of Japan’s main island Honshu, and it counts six prefectures – Aomori, Iwate, Miyagi, Akita, Yamagata and Fukushima – which contain many of Japan’s lesser-known ski areas.

With 24 days of precipitation in January on average, bluebird days in Tohoku’s mountains might be rare, but great snow conditions for powder hunters are guaranteed thanks to the cold moisture-laden storms that move in from the Sea of Japan. The storms hit the Ōu Mountain range, Japan’s longest range, creating heavy snowfalls for most of the winter, making Tohoku an excellent destination for snow-lovers. The locals in Tohoku call it “aspirin snow” the locals, the delicate dry snow that falls when the temperatures are cold, making it the perfect place for winter sports.

 

Aomori City, located in the very north of Tohoku, is the capital of Aomori Prefecture and the gateway to skiing and snowboarding in Tohoku. Aomori means “blue forest”, named after a small forest on a hill near the town. It may be the northern most city on Honshu, but access via the Shinkansen is quick and easy, the trip from Tokyo station to Shin-Aomori Station, taking around than three and a half hours from Tokyo Station.

 

If you want to play in the snow as soon as you arrive in Aomori, Snow Sports Park Aomori offers fun activities for everyone. The snowmobiling tour takes you around the 84.7 hectares area, twice as big as Disneyland Tokyo, and on a clear day you can take in a beautiful ocean view over Mutsu Bay from the top of the hill. The tour guides are very friendly, experienced, and adrenaline junkies themselves, so, it can get speedy on those machines.

Aomori Prefecture is a relatively untouched part of Japan and besides the excellent snow conditions and delicious seafood, it offers a variety of options to make unforgettable memories. Whether it is taking in the views from the Tsugaru Stove Winter Train which runs through the winter landscape of the Tsugara peninsula or the Shamisen performance in Hirosaki, there is plenty to explore in this unique area.

Of course, winter in Tohoku is all about the snow and with 22 resorts of all sizes to choose from skiers and snowboarders have plenty of options. Whether you are looking for secret spots to lay fresh tracks in the side and backcountry terrain or want to carve smooth turns on perfectly groomed runs or hit the jumps in the terrain park, Tohoku’s resorts cater to everyone.

A multi-resort trip is the way to go, and we were fortunate to experience three of the best:

Hakkoda (Aomori Prefecture)

Hakkoda is located 80 minutes from Aomori Station and offers excellent powder conditions and backcountry terrain. Hakkoda offers a variety of terrain.  Backcountry beginners and intermediates don’t have to worry about getting caught in narrow tree runs and experienced alpinists can set fast and wide turns into the open faces on the upper part of the mountain. Take up the gondola and enjoy this spectacular terrain – for only 3800 JPY (46 Australian Dollars) per day-pass.

 

Hakkoda is also famous for its forests of Juhyo, the wind-laden trees referred to as Snow Monsters which are a must see when visiting Tohoku.  Accessing the terrain with a local guide is highly recommended as it will not only ensure you find the best snow, but the winds can pick up and visibility deteriorate quickly, and it is likely you’ll losing orientation in a whiteout.

 

If you ski Hakkoda and are en route with a rental car, pay the famous Oirase river a visit. The Oirase river is 70 km long and was formed through a massive flood followed by a volcanic eruption in Lake Towada 15.000 years ago. Along the river, you can find beautiful ryokans (Japanese Inns) and hotels with epic onsen (hot spring) views over the Oirase river. There is no better way to relax after a long powder day than in a hot outdoor bath overlooking a sugar-coated Japanese river.

If you are still genki (energetic in Japanese) at night, take a stroll through the illumination event at Lake Towada. Starting from 5 pm, “Lake Towada winter stories of light” offers spectacular light shows, fireworks, and lake views.

 

Appi Kogen (Iwate Prefecture)

Appi Kogen is one of the biggest ski resorts in Japan. The longest course is 5.5 kilometres long, and the ski resort offers a great variety of slopes for every ski level. With its wide and long slopes, accessible sidecountry, and a fantastic terrain park, Appi Kogen has a great variety of mountain activities for every preference.

 

It also has sweeping views from the peak, including of the iconic Mount Iwate, the highest mountain in Iwate prefecture. The 2038-metre-high volcano is often referred to as Nambu Katafuji, or “half-sided Mt. Fuji of the Nambu area,” as the gentle-sloping side of the mountain resembles Mt. Fuji.

 

If you have tired legs from racing the 5.5km longest slope in one go or after heading through the gates to exploring the Appi’s backcountry with a local guide, you can relax in the big outdoor onsen of the Appi Kogen Onsen-Hotel. If you’re keen to experience true luxury, book the Maisonette Room which has its own private balcony on the balcony.  Also, ANA Intercontinental have opened a new luxury 38-room hotel in Appi, with views across the mountain.

Tazawako Ski Resort (Akita Prefecture)

 

The Tazawako Ski Resort is not only popular for its wide slopes, but skiers and snowboarders can also enjoy the beautiful view over Lake Tazawa the deepest lake of Japan.  The on piste runs cater to all standards including large dedicated beginners’ areas while the resort caters well for the freestyle scene with a FIS Moguls World Cup course, the excellent training facilities for ski and snowboard cross, and a terrain park and halfpipe.

 

If you’re chasing powder you’re in the right place with dedicated in-bounds tree runs on and accessible backcountry. Starting from the top of the ski resort, you can earn your turns hiking Mt. Akita Komagatake (1637m), an active stratovolcano and the highest mountain of Akita prefecture with plenty of options but you’ll need a guide to safely access the best snow. You can also find a CAT Tour operator in town.

The resort is very close to the hot spring resorts of Mizusawa, Tazawako Kogen, and Nyuto Onsen – a truly Japanese experience, with excellent Japanese cuisine and traditional onsen baths, scenically built into birch tree forests.

 

Like a spine running north to south in western Honshu, the stratovolcanic Ōu Mountain range cuts through the Tohoku region, inviting skiers and snowboarders to plenty of snow adventures on and off-piste. Nevertheless, take your time to also dive into the traditions and customs of the region, an experience that will make your trip unforgettable. If you want to read more about the skiing on offer in the Tohoku region, click here. 

Isabel travelled as guest of Tohoku Tourism