Chamonix – France’s Inspiring, Majestic, Iconic Mountain Destination
Mountainwatch | Words and photos Tony Harrington
The impacts of climate change are everywhere and Europe in particular feels like it’s shifting since I spent seasons here way back in the mid-90s. This winter was a case in point. There was plenty of snow in the Alps, but only for the resorts above 1700m. Those down lower were lucky if they saw snow. It was sad to drive past ski areas in February with barely a Brazilian strip of snow while others were simply shut.
Chamonix is a zone that tends to deliver on the promise of snow, but that’s just the half of it. There are many reasons I am in awe of this place and if I had to choose one spot in Europe for the rest of my life this would be it.
Cham may not be the most family friendly, nor the most inter-connected ski destination in Europe, but it is the most dramatic and inspiring ski zone for my money. It’s a real town, with schools, ice hockey matches and the everyday stuff of normal life going on as well as a pulsing culture of alpinism up and down this majestic valley. For me, and many skiers who seek out this place for their adrenaline dose, the fact it is not a ‘resort’ is part of the appeal. Then there’s the terrain. It’s take-no-prisoners here once you head beyond the managed pistes.
One of the bucket list ski lines you’ll find here is the legendary Vallée Blanche which stretches from the top of Aiguille du Midi down to the valley floor into Chamonix. The vertical drop is almost 3 kilometres and you’ll have skied around 22kms by the time you reach the base – however doing the whole Vallée Blanche has been a pipe dream recently as the lower altitudes haven’t held snow. A telecabine (gondola) was built at what used to be the base of the ice field in the 1980’s and would return skiers to the Montenvers station where the famous little red train would link back to town.
This iconic destination provides a stark example of what’s happening to glaciers in the Alps. In the early 1990’s three steps were added to connect the bottom station of the lift from the ice field as it receded. By the early 2000s 118 steps were needed to bridge the yawning gap and as climate change has accelerated so has the rate at which new steps were required with the total growing to a staggering 550+ steps by the early 2020s. These changes underline what my own memories and eyes have been telling me – we are losing fragile ice fields at a rate that is anything but ‘glacial’ in pace.
In February this year a new ‘La Mer de Glace’ gondola opened as part of a 53 million-euro investment by the Compagnie du Mont-Blanc to enable skiers, snowboarders and sightseeing visitors to access this magnificent natural wonder. The new lift extends to the bottom of the valley where it’s hoped the snow-pack will remain allowing a ski connection to the base station for years to come.
So, the good news, “hot laps” (for those fit enough) are now back on the table without a massive hike back up. It’s now technically possible to do two or three runs in a day.
Although the Vallée Blanche is skied without guides by those with the knowledge, a ski partner and a plan, guided tours are available and are a must for those not well versed in off-piste glaciated terrain. It’s a very long descent, with numerous routes that can lure you into dead ends. You will be skiing over crevasses with sometimes very fragile snow bridges and this is a wild and untamed place. A great day skiing can become lethal or at the very least turn into a scary-mad line. It’s worth remembering most locals and pros here can tackle terrain than you never could. Staying humble and making smart choices will mean you get to share your story over après and do it again. Google “extreme”.
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