Mountainwatch Guide to Kicking Horse – One of Canada’s Must-Visit Ski Destinations

October 30th, 2024
Ethan Thorn loving a bluebird powder day in Kicking Horse last winter. Photo: @collection.adm

Mountainwatch | Arkie Elliss

Kicking Horse is located in Interior BC and is renowned for its terrain, quality dry snow and incredible scenery and for core skiers and snowboarders, it is one of the best destinations in North America.

The good news for those heading to Kicking Horse this winter is that a potential La Nina is on the way, the Grasshopper writing his first 2024-25 North American Season Outlook, that usually means consistent storms and above average snow totals in the Canadian Rockies. Thredbo skier Arkie Elliss has spent the past two winters in Kicking Horse and here is her rundown on a resort that keeps her coming back for more.

Photo: Kicking Horse

Located in the middle of the Rocky Mountains, Purcell Range and Selkirk Mountains in interior BC, Kicking Horse is home to some of North America’s best and most challenging terrain and is the only North American location on the Freeride World Tour. The resort is 2.5hrs (270kms) west of Calgary and 14km from Golden, the closest town.

Kicking Horse is surrounded by national parks and dramatic peaks and the views from the top of the Golden Eagle gondola (elevation 2505m) are spectacular, the type that stop you in your tracks every time you are at the top.

While Kicking Horse is a relatively new resort, opening under its current name in December 2000, the resort first opened as in 1986 as the Whitetooth Ski Area. There were two lifts, the Pioneer chair which still operates in Kicking Horse today and a T-bar, accessing 609 vertical metres on the lower mountain.

Kicking Horse, spectacular every where you look. Photo: Kicking Horse Mountain

A change of ownership in the late ‘90s lead to investment in two new lifts – a gondola and a fixed grip chair – which dramatically increased the ski area, the gondola providing access to expert terrain that had previously been the reserve of heli-skiing operations.

Kicking Horse is now owned by the Resorts of the Canadian Rockies (RCR) which owns a number of ski resorts including Fernie, Kimberly and Nakiska. If you have an Epic Australia Pass it gives you five combined days skiing at RCR resorts (not five days at each resorts) and I reckon using the five days at Kicking Horse is a great option.

Kicking Horse las winter when a storm dropped a  7-day total to 133cms and back-to-back days of deep, light dry powder. Photo: Kicking Horse Mountain Resort

The Resort

These days Kicking Horse has five lifts ­– one gondola, three chairlifts and a magic carpet. While there aren’t many lifts they do give you access to a huge variety of terrain and don’t worry, you definitely won’t get bored. These lifts access 128 runs spread across 2825 acres of skiable terrain and 1260m of vertical, the fourth highest vertical drop in North America. The terrain is classified as 20% beginner, 20% intermediate, 45% advanced and 15% expert.

For advanced and expert riders, Kicking Horse has a lot to offer with open bowls, steep tree skiing and technical chutes spread across the whole mountain, many of which are classified as black or double black diamond. The upper mountain consists of four big open bowls – Super Bowl, Bowl Over, Crystal Bowl and Fuez Bowl – and steep terrain which mellows out towards the bottom where you’ll find intermediate terrain.

Arkie Elliss on one of those days last winter that keeps her coming back for more

Kicking Horse receives a season average of 7.5m of snow which, thanks to its altitude and interior location, is super light and often quite deep, so when it snows it is on. Last winter Kicking Horse had a slow start but at the end of February it dumped over a metre of snow in four days. It was the best snow I’ve skied, so light, so deep, better than anything I’ve skied in Japan. When you get that kind of snow in the type of terrain Kicking Horse has to offer it is next level – that’s probably why I’m heading back to Kicking Horse soon for my third winter.

Some of the best terrain is on CPR ridge and there is a large variety to choose from and where I have had some of the best turns of my life. The south side has some great tree skiing while CPR north has chutes, open faces and some super fun technical lines. Fuez Bowl, off the top of the Stairway Chair, is another favourite and the further you go along the top ridgeline the terrain varies from large open faces to wide chutes and drop offs.

Kicking Horse also has in-bounds terrain that isn’t directly serviced by a lift but requires a short hike. Expert riders will find some gnarly terrain, including Ozone, renowned as one of the Freeride World Tour venues, a steep face with large cliff and features. White Wall which is on the way to Ozone at the top of the Stairway chair is the shortest hike with steep but fun terrain.  Mini Ridge is a short but steep boot pack, where you are able to find powder stashes a few days after a storm. On the other side of the mountain is T1 and T2 which has some of the best terrain in the resort.

Estelle Rizzoli making the most of the perfect conditions for the 2023 FWT event in Kicking Horse.  Photo Bernard/FWT

While there is a lot of terrain for advanced skiers, it is limited for beginners and intermediates, with most intermediate runs located at the bottom section of the mountain accessible from the Pioneer chairlift. The beginners’ area is at the base which has good progressive terrain, serviced by the magic carpet while the Catamount chair also accesses a number of green runs.

Kicking Horse doesn’t have much of a terrain park, just a few small boxes and rails, good for people learning and progressing their skills. The top half of the mountain only has a few groomed runs, including “It’s a 10”, a green run that trails around the whole mountain from the top of the gondola to the bottom. Halfway it down in funnels into more groomed run options including Blaster, a good option when you want to lay over a few turns. Cloud Nine is one of the steeper groomed runs and is off the top of the Stairway chair.

The views of the Purcell Range from the top of Kicking Horse’s Golden Eagle Express gondola are something else. Drew Jolowicz hooks in on a brilliant blue-sky day. Photo: Dylan Robinson

The Backcountry

There is a lot of backcountry around Kicking Horse with good touring and terrain in the Selkirk and Purcell mountain ranges where there is something for both advanced and intermediate riders. In the resort side-country, Rudi’s bowl is a great option for those just getting started as it’s not too difficult and easily accessible.

Of course, avalanches are always possible in the backcountry and you need the right equipment, know how to use it and what snow conditions are like. There are multiple guiding companies in Golden that are a great way to explore the backcountry in a safe way.

Photo: Kicking Horse Mountain Resort

If you have the cash there are also a number of heli and cat skiing operations in the area Rogers Pass, just a 50-minute drive from Golden, has some of the best backcountry skiing in BC, there is also guided tour options. Chatter Creek is another great backcountry spot for touring, sledding and cat skiing.

Accommodation and dining

Kicking Horse Mountain offers several accommodation options if you’re after a ski-in/ski-out experience, though these tend to be pricier than staying in Golden.

The Palliser Lodge is a great choice, deluxe accom in in a prime ski-in/ski location with balconies providing stunning views of the Rocky Mountains or the ski slopes. The lodge is conveniently situated just a short walk or ski from the village base, gondola, restaurants, and bars.

For a child free zone consider the Vagabond Lodge, a boutique inn for guests aged 14 and older and is run by dedicated hosts who have operated the property for many years. Located just a short walk from the Golden Eagle Express gondola, the lodge features free WiFi, beautifully decorated spacious rooms, a cozy wood-burning river rock fireplace, and a unique split-log Douglas fir bar.

The base area

The Kicking Horse village has a few restaurants, bars, cafes and shops. Peaks Grill is a great affordable option for classic western style food and drinks, I’d recommend the chicken wings. Eagle Eye restaurant located at the top of the gondola is open Friday and Saturday nights which is great experience and has fantastic food and service. It’s open for lunch every day and is a great place to stop and relax while taking in the breathtaking views of the mountain ranges.

For a place to warm up on those super cold days, Double Black near the gondola base is a great option with coffee, hot chocolate and great food (the BLT bagel from Double Black is the best thing I’ve ever eaten.)

Golden is 15 mins drive the resort and has a plenty of accomodation and dining options. Photo: Tourism Golden

Golden is just a 15-minute drive from Kicking Horse and has a variety if accommodation options including hotels, B ‘n Bs, lodges and self-contained holiday rentals.

Basecamp Lodge is next to the Kicking Horse river and just a short walk to downtown Golden with cozy rooms in a lovely timber framed building. When staying in Golden there is a shuttle bus that goes up to hill every hour that costs $5 each way which is great if you don’t have a car. One of the pick-up and drop-off spots is at the Basecamp Lodge.

Golden has more atmosphere at night compared to staying at the village Kicking Horse which is pretty quiet. It has more dining options and a few bars including the River House which has good cheap food and fire pits outside. Wolf’s Den is another great option for delicious burgers and a nice rustic mountain vibe that is well priced. Respasdos is a Mexican restaurant with delicious food and drinks which is definitely one of my favourites.

Kicking Horse frontside village. Photo: Kicking Horse Mountain

Off snow activities

There are a few things to do if you’re looking for off snow activities in Kicking Horse. There are snowmobile rentals and tours available at White N’ Wild Adventures, Rocky Mountain Riders, and Golden Snowmobile Rentals. There is also rock climbing at the Confluence Climbing Gym located in golden. You can also spend the day exploring nearby national parks including Yoho National Park where you can snowshoe or cross-country ski around Emerald Lake, you are able to rent equipment there as well.

Northern lights Wolf Center is a great option for families, with interpretive tours where you get to see the wolves and learn about them, there are also options to go on walks with a wolf as your guide. Truly unique and unforgettable experience. You can also buy a scenic pass for the gondola ride allowing you to see mountains from all directions and the amazing views that Kicking Horse has to offer. If you’re lucky you may be able to see Boo the grizzly bear from the gondola in March and April.

Getting there

If hiring a rental car, this can be available at the Calgary Airport. The route you would take is 2.5 hours on the Trans-Canada Highway 1 Westbound. This drive will take you through the beautiful Lake Louise and Golden. When you arrive in Golden you will need to take the turnoff to the resort and you’ll find Kicking Horse 14 km up the mountain.

The shuttles from Calgary International Airport operate twice a week (Wednesdays and Saturdays) or on request. The Kicking Horse YYC Express Shuttle is a shared service between Brewster Transportation and Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. If you are taking the shuttle you need to check in at least 10 minutes prior to departure. There is also a shuttle bus that takes you to Golden leaving Calgary everyday also stopping at Banff and Lake Louise.

Alternatively, shuttles can be taken from the city of Calgary as well.

Head to Mountainwatch Travel for more info and for 2024-2025 Kicking Horse packages.

Kicking Horse snow cams, forecasts

Trail Map

Mountain Stats

  • Elevation Top 2,505 metres (8,218 feet)
  • Elevation Bottom 1,190 metres (3,900 feet)
  • Vertical Drop 1,315 metres (4,314 feet)
  • Skiable Terrain 3,486 acres
  • Longest Run
  • Beginner 20%
  • Intermediate 20%
  • Advanced 45%
  • Expert 15%
  • Total Number of Trails 120+
  • Inbound Chutes 85+