Art & Culture in Kanazawa, Japan – Top 5 (Non-Snow) Activities

July 26th, 2019
Century old gardens, confectionary, craft and Geisha’s… To name but a few attractions in the emerging Japanese cultural capital of Kanazawa. Photo:: Gyokusen-en

 

Mountainwatch | Matt Wiseman

Following the interest generated from our article last year on Kanazawa, Ishikawa – a cultural capital of japan– we thought we’d revisit this underappreciated prefecture and provide some must-do cultural activities for those looking to cap off any self-respecting ski holiday to the land of the rising sun/falling snowflake this coming season.

By way of background, Kanazawa is located on Honshu’s northern coast between the Sea of Japan and the Japanese Alps. It is only a 1-hour journey by shinkansen (bullet train) from Nagano, the prefecture in which the likes of Hakuba, Nozawa Onsen, Myoko Kogen, Shiga Kogen and Madarao Kogen all reside.

Despite the possibility of a day trip from any one of these resorts, we think it’s worth giving yourself a couple of days here to truly savour the depth of Japan’s cultural offerings, which in our opinion rivals the depth of its snow.

 

N.b. More detail on how to get to Kanazawa at the bottom of this article. Just after the part where you realise you definitely want to go here!

Kanazawa is the capital of the Ishikawa prefecture, and one of Japan’s great castle towns. Its first feudal lord, a man by the name of Maeda Toshiie entered its Castle in 1583 and the rest, as they say, is history.

Under the Maeda clan’s patronage, the area’s crafting and culture flourished and according to local Japanese tourism authorities, the result of this was a bountiful wealth that totalled a staggering one million koku.For those not familiar with the kokusystem, it’s a measure of payment in rice of which one kokufed one person for an entire year…  Basically, it’s a lot of rice.

The signs of this wealth can still be seen today when strolling down the cobbled streets, and effectively peering back in time while observing the traditional samurai district, the towns abundant wooden teahouses and in interactions with geisha’s who walk the streets with you.

For this reason and more, Kanazawa is coming into its own as “the other Kyoto” or “mini Kyoto”. That is to say, it has all the attractions of the much better known Japanese city minus all of the tourist traffic and trappings.

 

The cobbled streets and straw covered walls of the Nagamachi Samurai residences (protects the traditional mud walls from snow). Photo:: Kanazawa City

 

Higashi Chaya District still beautiful in the middle of winter. Photo:: Kanazawa City

Short of detailing every possible activity to do in Kanazawa, (this would be a long list) we’ve compiled our top five picks – which in theory could be enjoyed in a single day, but better spread over a few. Note the prices provided may be subject to change with respect to a small rise in consumption tax from October. However, most activities in Kanazawa are staggeringly cheap, at a few thousand yen, if that.

 

See the above pins for the full spread of ‘to-do’s’ in Kanazawa and read on for our ‘top-picks’ below…

 

5. Kutani Ceramic Painting

Similar to the ‘Kaga Yuzen’ silk dyeing activity we detailed last year, Kutani ceramic painting is an equally hands-on and archetypally Japanese experience.

The Kutani Kosen Kiln is Kanazawa’s only such ceramic kiln and invites tourists in to witness the “potter’s lathe to the final glaze”. The best part is you can actually participate in the painting process and take a ready-made saucer or cup, create your own design and colour it using traditional paints and pigments. Even better is they’ll bake your masterpiece and have it delivered to your home address within two months!

 


 

While there’s a ‘master’ on hand to help you when needed, it’s not easy getting your porcelain to resemble the professional thing pictured here. Photo:: Kanazawa City

 

4. Tea Ceremony & Garden Experience

After an intensive porcelain painting session, it’s a good idea to unwind with a traditional tea ceremony and garden experience at The Nishida Garden: Gyokusen-en

Now if you think the porcelain painting was time-intensive, bear in mind that the Nishida garden was constructed over the course of a century…

 

Depending on when you go, the garden that took 100 years to cultivate, could look like this or it could be buried in snow… Photo:: Kanazawa City

 

Said garden buried in snow. Photo:: Gyokusen-en

 


The attractive garden invites you into the Saisetsu-tei Teahouse, the oldest of its kind in Kanazawa. Within you can participate in a traditional Japanese tea ceremony, whip green tea and savour hot matcha.

 

3. Japanese Confectionary Moulding

 

Anyone who’s spent any time in japan will know they’re serious about their sweets – so much so, the bread can sometimes be considered one.

In fact, Kanazawa, Kyoto, and Matsue are called the “three greatest Japanese places of confectionery making” in all of Japan. Arguably in that order too.

 


Morihachi Kaga confectioneries take ‘sweets’ to a whole new level and lives up to the surrounding activities pedigree throughout the ages as it is no less than four centuries old. Located in the same building as the Kanazawa Museum of Wooden Japanese Sweet Moulds (two birds one stone), within the confectionary store, you can learn to mix and knead rice flour, food colouring add a special powdered sugar and mould it into a sweet – the perfect compliment to all the tea you just finished drinking.

 

Japanese Wagashi confectionary. Photo:: Kanazawa City

 

2. Sake Brewing Tour and Tasting

Forget sushi, ramen or the aforementioned confectionary. If you want a real taste of Japan, it doesn’t get more Japanese than sake.

In keeping with the 100 year trend for doing things – Fukumitsuya sake brewery(one of Kanazawa’s best) employs ‘Hyakunesui’ – which translates to ‘one hundred year old water’ in English and describes the blessed water they use in their product which begins as rain and snow falling on nearby Mt. Hakusan.

This water is then filtered underground and ‘blessed’ by the minerals therein for no less than one hundred years before finally being brewed into sake.

 


Guided tours run on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturday’s whilst the short 30min tour runs daily and is entirely FREE with complimentary sake tasting.

 

Since 1625, Fukumitsuya has been turning the flowing waters from Mount Haku’s snow and rain into refined sake. Photo:: Fukumitsuya sake brewery

 

The brewers outside the Fukumitsuya sake brewery and in their traditional/daily work attire. Photo:: Fukumitsuya sake brewery

 

1. Geisha Evenings

Last but certainly not least, a unique opportunity exists to enjoy an evening with geisha at a two hundred-year-old local teahouse, ‘Kaikaro’ in the traditional district of Higashi Chaya.

A bona fide rarity these days, only a few cities in Japan still maintain a number of genuine Geisha and Kanazawa is one of the bigger ones with some of the most accessible Geisha shows. Indeed, it is typically very difficult to attend any performances due to strict admittance policies and while it is possible to witness a Geisha evening here, it is still far from a touristy event.

 

Opening remarks are given in English by Kaikaro’s landlady, Lady Baba (centre) who will clarify aspects of geisha culture, describe a day in the life and introduce the geisha themselves who then perform. Photo:: geishaevenings.jp

 


The program is only available for one month during both spring and autumn. As this is subject to change, you can find out exactly when here.

 

Bonus activity:

Kaga Cuisine Cooking

No day/stay in Kanazawa would be complete (or possible) without fuelling up on some of the local cuisine. See here for a comprehensive list on where to eatbut we expect you’ll probably love it so much; you’ll want to learn how to make it yourself.

Enter Aoki cooking school… Located in the samurai district of Nagamachi, at Aoki cooking school a professional chef will teach you to make such dishes as Jibuni and Kaga cuisine.

Whilst recipes are given in English, the instructions are in Japanese – which we think makes it an even more exciting challenge.

 

Jibuni, a traditional Ishikawa duck meat stew with vegetables and a kelp and bonito stock, which is usually served in a lacquered bowl made especially for the dish. Photo:: supplied

 

A dreamy spread of Kaga cuisine. Photo:: supplied

 

Getting there & getting around:

As touched on above, Kanazawa is centrally located in Japan and very easy to get to from ski resorts and cities alike. See below for relevant city/mode of transport. But our recommendation is starting from Tokyo and killing two birds with one proverbial stone by hopping on the Shinkansen, which is an experience in itself.

Once in the heart of Kanazawa, most of the attractions mentioned here are within walking distance of a few kilometres radius. Otherwise a 200-yen bus fare will get you on the Kanazawa bus loop and each bus stop is displayed in English (very important)…

If you’ve been to Kanazawa yourself, do let us know in the comments on social media – where you visited and if you think we missed any must-do activities!

Now that we’ve ticked off the ‘must-do’, check back in soon as we’ll be profiling the ‘must-see’ parts of Kanazawa and the wider Ishikawa prefecture.

 


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For great deals on visiting the ‘Cultural Capital’ see: http://kanazawa-winter-stays.com/liquidsnowtours/